Lobster roll war erupts in New England over controversial ingredient in 'die-hard' divide

A recent debate has emerged in Maine over the proper way to serve a lobster roll, with some arguing that it should be served with cold lobster meat and mayonnaise, while others prefer it with warm lobster meat and butter.

Maine-style lobster rolls typically consist of cold lobster meat, either tossed in mayonnaise or served with mayonnaise on the side, piled onto a warm, toasted split-top bun. In contrast, Connecticut-style lobster rolls, which are also served in Maine, typically include warm lobster meat, poached in butter or served with warm butter on the side.

Peter Bissell, co-owner of Highroller Lobster Co. in Portland, Maine, believes that there is room for both styles of lobster roll. His restaurant offers both Maine-style and Connecticut-style lobster rolls, with a specialty mayonnaise drizzled on top of the lobster meat in a zigzag pattern. Bissell noted that about 50% of lobster rolls sold at his restaurant are ordered with mayonnaise, while 50% are ordered with butter, with 25% of those being Connecticut-style.

Not all restaurants in Maine are as flexible as Highroller Lobster Co. Robert Marcarelli, a Connecticut-based chef and restaurant owner, only serves Connecticut-style lobster rolls, warmed with butter. Marcarelli noted that while he will occasionally try a lobster roll with mayonnaise, his preference is for a traditional hot lobster roll with butter.

Both Bissell and Marcarelli agree that the key to a delicious lobster roll is fresh lobster meat, not frozen. Marcarelli noted that many people are buying frozen lobster meat, which can be easily identified by its inferior taste compared to fresh meat.